Postcard from Montpellier 3: Where to Beat the Heat in Montpellier: advice from an English Intern

Hello and welcome (or welcome back!) to Postcards from Montpellier! If you’re new around here, let me introduce myself- I'm Tallie, a 21-year-old language student spending the first half of my year abroad in the south of France. I study French and Spanish at university in the UK, but I’m currently living in Montpellier and interning as a receptionist at Institut Linguistique Adenat (ILA), Wisewards’ partner language school here in the city.

If you are anything like me, then you absolutely love the sun and enjoy the summer months, just not when it gets too hot. When I moved to Montpellier a few months ago, the biggest ‘culture shock’ for me was definitely the heat. As soon as I stepped out of the air-conditioned plane at Montpellier airport, I was immediately hit with a feeling comparable to being in a sauna. This, as you can imagine, could not have been more of a contrast from the miserable, rainy Gatwick which I had departed from just two hours before. Obviously, I had expected the heat, but I don’t think your body can ever be fully prepared for such a drastic change in climate. In fact, one of the first new French words I learned on my year abroad was ‘une canicule’ meaning ‘a heatwave’ – a word that has turned out to be very useful during my time in Montpellier.

I’ll admit, I was a little disheartened to discover that I would not have air conditioning in my home for the next few months. According to my host, I would “acclimatise” to the heat after just two days. I wasn’t so sure… but in fact, she was partially right! I do think my body has become used to the warmer weather; however I’ll never reach the level of the locals- some of whom wear jeans in 30-degree heat! So, if you relate to me in any way, or are just interested in finding out more about life in Montpellier, then keep reading; I am going to share all of my favourite places to cool off around the city. In other words: my top 3 swim spots!

1. Le Pont du Diable

Starting off strong with one of my favourite swim sports near Montpellier: the Pont du Diable (pictured above). Located about a 40-minute drive from the city centre, this iconic site is an absolute must-see during the summer months. I discovered this gem by going on an Erasmus tour on my first weekend here. After a hot and sweaty morning exploring the medieval village of St-Guilhem-Le-Désert, I could not wait to dive into the beautiful Hérault river. From the village, we took a free shuttle bus which dropped us off right next to the famous bridge, where we were greeted with the incredible view which lay before us.

Built in 1030 by Benedictine monks, the Pont du Diable was originally constructed to allow to facilitate travel and pilgrimage across the Hérault River. It forms part of the ancient pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compolesta). Spanning a dramatic limestone gorge, the bridge overlooks one of the most popular wild swimming spots near Montpellier.

It is also a beloved spot for the locals, especially the teenagers who enjoy cliff-jumping off the surrounding rocks- this in itself makes quite an entertainment! I have been swimming in the gorge twice during my stay here, once with the tour and once with friends and it is without a doubt one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever swum in!

The icy-cold water of the Hérault river makes it the perfect spot to cool off during a heatwave in Montpellier. You can even rent a canoe for an hour or two and explore the gorge and its surroundings even more.

If you’re planning to visit the Pont du Diable by public transport, then I would recommend planning ahead and being very organised, as there are only 4 buses a day! It may take a bit of an effort to get there, but I promise you it is so worth it! 

2. Getting to the beach from Montpellier

On arriving in the city for the second time around, it seemed that some of my memories were a bit hazy… I had been telling my friends and family that Montpellier was just 15 minutes by tram from the beach and I had imagined daily post-work beach trips. However, it turns out my memory failed slightly as I soon learned that the beach was a little further away than I had thought.

Yes, by car it only takes 15 minutes, but by public transport it can take up to an hour as you first need to take a tram from city centre and then either bike, walk or take a bus from the end of the tram line to cross the ‘étang’ (a big coastal lagoon, separated from the sea by a narrow sandy strip).  Although I was a bit disappointed at first, about the distance it has certainly not stopped me from taking regular beach trips on weekends or half-days.

The two easiest beaches to get to by public transport from Montpellier are Palavas-Les-Flots and Carnon. Whether you want to just read a book and relax in the sun or join in with a competitive game of volleyball, these beaches have become some of my favourite spots near the city. Palavas is particularly charming as it is an old fishing village with lots of colourful boats and a small canal lined with seafood restaurants.  It truly feels like a classic holiday destination and its laid-back feel provides an excellent escape from the fast-paced city life.

3. Lac du Crès

I decided to save my favourite until last. I’ve lost count of the number of times I have visited the lake this summer! I actually found out about the Lac du Crès from one of the students at ILA, one of Wiseward’s partner Language Schools I intern at, and it came at just the right time as I had been frantically searching for swimming spots near Montpellier during the canicule (heatwave).

The easiest way to get to the lake is to take tram line 2 from the city centre in the direction of Jacou. The journey takes about 20 minutes and then it is just a short walk to the lake, so it is a bit easier to get to compared to the beach. 

Formerly a limestone quarry, the now lake reaches depths of up to 15 metres. It is also the perfect green space to relax, as the lake lies within a 27-hectare green space with trees surrounding the lake that offer the ideal shady spots to escape from the midday sun. The French woman I live with told me the lake was part of an environmental project to create more green spaces for the public; her children even planted a tree each around the lake! 

My favourite time to go to the lake in the early evening after work (I did get to fulfil my dream of a post-work swim after all!) That’s when the sun starts to drop and the cicadas become the main characters. As someone who has grown up in the countryside, Lac du Crès has become a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of the busy city life. I have even seen run clubs gathering around the lake… maybe I will try that once the weather cools down a bit… emphasis on the maybe!

So for any of you planning a trip to Montpellier, or thinking about signing up to one of our French courses at ILA, or just daydreaming of sunnier skies, I hope this guide has given you some refreshing ideas for how to beat the heat. After living here for a couple of months, I can honestly say that Montpellier has it all- a culturally diverse vibe, beautiful architecture, and easy access to nature, from river gorges and sea swims to a beautiful lake, just a tram ride away. With 300 days of sunshine a year, it’s the perfect place to soak up the sun and study French in the south of France - it’s a no brainer if you ask me!

Thanks for reading, and I’ll see you next time for more Postcards from Montpellier!

À tout!
Tallie 💌